Bustin’ Down The Door

18 Feb

If I could be MADE, I would be made into a sufer in Oahu in the 70s. Lately, I’ve been gravitating towards the surfing documentaries and really enjoying them. I used to watch surfing on television when I was younger. I have never surfed. I have never had a desire to surf. I’m not a beach person (almost drowned my first day of Junior Guards and had to be bribed with money to return each day for the rest of the summer), but  I’ve been feeling those luscious waves and glorious sands recently. I’ve seen a handful of surf documentaries and “Bustin’ Down the Door” is my favorite one to date. It was moving and inspiring and badass. It’s the story of a group of young Australians and South Africans who came to Oahu in the 70’s to conquer the waves and make names for themselves. Their cockiness and success almost led to them being beaten to a pulp and/or killed. The movie closes in one of the best ways I could have imagined. It gave me chills and I keep on thinking about it and it’s been almost 48 hours (omg!). Note: You can watch this on Netflix Watch Instantly.

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Shaun Tomson and Rabbit Bartholomew (Shaun is one dreamy brah.)

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Mark Richards “MR” & Shaun Tomson

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Rabbit

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p.s. I also watched “Surfwise” this past weekend at the advice of my brother. It was good….very depressing and disturbing but fascinating. The old man had some pretty funny quotes. “My life changed completely when I met this girl named Ellen and she taught me how to eat p***y. I then decided I would f*** 25 girls consecutively and take notes and give them scores.” It was more about a family cult and less about surfing. I was fine with that.

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2 Responses to “Bustin’ Down The Door”

  1. Leanna February 18, 2009 at 2:09 pm #

    I think Endless Summer is the only surf documentary I’ve seen, and that was a long time ago. I remember being completely enthralled though.

  2. Jack February 20, 2009 at 7:11 pm #

    Getting this on Netflix Saturday. Woohoo!

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